Chapter 19 Wing, Aileron and Wing Attach


Now we get to the REALLY big parts! I ordered enough foam to do both wings, borrowed Ed Richards DC Power Supply, (Thanks again, Ed.). The Cozy Girrrrls sent me the metal templates currently circulating amonst us Cozy Builders (Nice!).

Caution: When laying out the Planiforms on the foam, remember t the foam comes to us in 7x "14.25" blocks, which if you don't allow for, will screw things up nicely.

The plans mention this, but I thought it worth saying again. I took the Trailing edge off, (carefully) to get things to the right dimensions so the joint between the 2 blocks fell further back from the leading edge. This will provide for less interference from the stick we use to hold the locks together. I did the starboard inboard core the way the plans state and all came out well. But instead of doing the same with the Port core, and risk gettting things balled up while trying to figure left from right, I just set the foam block on the starboard (completed) block and traced the same shape to the Port one. (Did I get wordy enough here?)

The just flip it over, keeping keeping the inboard end pointing the right way, and you'll save yourself a lot of "...if this was left, then that must be right."

Here's a shot of the power supply on loan from Ed Richards, (Thanks Again!) Really worked well.

And below are a few shots of various wing cores being cut.

As you can see at right, the spar cap troughs came out nice. Thanks in no small part to gluing sticks across them during the first cut, then coming back to to the cap cutouts later. Maybe Nat will make a change to the plans regarding this issue someday.

I don't have any pics on the Shear-web lay-up.  I guess the best thing to say about this part of the wing construction is there weren't any suprizes.  Nat's instructions were concise and left little to the imagination.

To the left and below: A few views of the wings in the jigs. As others have said, the jigs are more of a guide, as opposed to an exact fit. The only thing I needed to adjust for was when gluing the "nose" section of the cores back on, I found I needed to find exactly vertical for the lines I had so judiciously drawn on the cores before cutting the forward

I used the same 3/4" shelving board from Home Depot, as mentioned in Wayne Hicks website. (Thanx Wayne!) As well as the legendary Drywall screws.

As you can see... I used some shelving brackets to fasten the jigs to the table. (MUCH faster than the method used in the plans.)

All jigged and ready for spar cap layup. The jig for the second from outboard end was off about 1/4" and had to be shimmed up. Hope this doesn't come back to haunt me someday.

I found duct tape to be the best stuff to use on the edges of the spar cap to hold the paper in place and keep a minimum of epoxy from getting to the foam.

Here's a pic of me with the Ceremonial Samurai Head Band (made of a split worn out gym sock... washed , of course.) in the process of wetting out another layer of the "ubiquitous" uni-tape.

Trimming the glass with the ever-popular Dritz Electric scissors.

Laying the glass here was not much different than doing the fuselage sides. Ensure the glass does not overlap and what-not.

Now it's in storage... waiting for me to cut the ailerons.

Oh Boy!!!   I can hardly wait. We'll see how accurate a job of hotwiring we did.

In closing: The only scare I had during this phase of "The Build", was when I was getting ready to glass the top of the wing, and just for the fun of it, I sighted down the trailing edge.
To my dismay, disgust, and extreme panic, I saw a distinct bend at @BL60. HOLY SHEEIT!!!

I spent the next 2-3 hours devising ways to eliminate the bend.(Clamps, straight edges, etc..) Then I got on the Net, Phone, Ham Radio, Jungle drums, and yes, on my knees for advice. I called another builder, and told him of my screw-up. He said: "No big deal. The bend is supposed to be there."

I attend church regularly now.

Now is the time we get just a little bit more daring.. We get to cut out the ailerons... which if the hotwire stuff was done according to "THE BIBLE" (Plans), should work out perfectly. I must say, no problems here. Really looking forward to my ailerons not balancing, as a number of other builders have experienced. I may eat these words later, but, everyone following me would do well to pay attention to the drawings showing exactly where the steel rods go. I just have this nagging feeling that when I go to balance them.. I'll have to cut them out, and move them forward a couple of millimeters. Of course, just about every one of my premonitions have turned out to be wrong.. so, I'm probably writing this for nothing. I just wanted to let those coming behind me

Later note: My premonition was right. See below for the full story.

Here, I used the "Wayne Hicks Method" of persuading the glass to stay put. Only had a couple of instances where the glass bubbled up... no problem to fix.

Turned out beautiful.. with the help of the Famous Fein Detail Sander with the HSS Blade

Here I am with my Precision Sanding Tool, (2x4 w/sand paper glued on), attempting to sand some weight off becaused my ailerons didn't balance correctly. I went back to the drawings and discovered I had placed the balance weight not far enough forward on the aileron by about 1/4". After cutting loose the bar 3/4 of the way down the aileron, positioning IAW plans drawings, glassing it in place... the ailerons balanced slightly tail up. Should be perfect after painting. I've seen other people make this same mistake, so I don't feel so bad.

Below is a shot of the ailerons being held in place with Clecos. I plan on using ClickBonds through the skin to hold the hinges in place. In the picture on the right, you can see the ClickBond studs in place which will hold the Infinity bearings.

Here, I'm setting up for the "Level and Check and Level and Check and Level and Check and Level and Check" drill. I was hoping to do this over one weekend, but due to having to search for all the right sockets, extesions, drivers, and dental floss, (no kidding!  I used it to pull some of the bolts through in the tight places.), there was a significant learning curve for the first wing. The second wing went much smoother, and with much less swearing. As it turned out, I didnt need any washers to get things to match up wing-incidence wise. Scary!

  If I remember correctly, the plans have you finish the ailerons before mating the spar. I wanted to ensure my wing did not need to be rebuilt before expending the time for that, so, I skipped around a bit.

Here, you can see the whole enchilada. Now... If it only would be perfect when I mount the spar to the fuselage. Yeah. Right.

The Smart Tool Level and the 5/8" Grainger Hole saw were the 2 must have items here. I also made a water-level out of clear tubing and red dye. All frames used for holding the wings were made using drywall screws, and I think @4 straight 2X4's.

Here's a shot of what the click bonds looked like prior to putting the two plying the BID on top of them.

Later note: It turns out I didn't have to use very much micro at all to make the click bonds blend in with the wing surface.  (At least it feels that way.  Will find out for sure after final painting.)

June 20, 2004

At right, I have placed a two layer BID of glass over the entire hinge area on the inboard aileron hinge.  We'll just have to see how much micro I'll have to apply to get the smooth look I'm hunting for.

For those of you who are interested in following in my footsteps, I prepared each hole by sanding them with a grinding tool, grinding notches into the click bond bases, applied flox, and held them in place with cellophane coated aluminum angle iron.  About halfway through the cure, is where I decided it would be good to apply the two BID layers.  Then, a judicious layer of peel ply.


And below, we have the completed (thru finish primer) Wing with aileron installed. It takes a bit of jimmying, but the ailerons aren't all that much harder to install than the the plans method. (AND THEY LOOK COOL TOO!!!) So far, I'm pretty pleased with the look. I know, I know, the Clickbonds aren't according to plans. The Clickbonds should be able to handle any loads the ailerons can place on them.

  You can see how the rudders turned out in the next chapter.

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