Chapter 10 
Canard Construction


Well, well, well. We finally get to a Chapter which allows us to create a surface which will actually contribute to getting my rather cute behind into the air.

All kidding aside, this has been a rather exciting experience in that , to me, it represents a significant milestone in the construction process. I now really feel I am building something designed to fly. I know it sounds stupid, but, after working for  1.5 years on something that resembles a small, slow, and very likely sinkable boat, it is truly gratifying to be able to present something, to the uninitiated, which looks somewhat like something which might actually create lift.

So.. here we go!!!!

First, I would like to give a hearty THANK YOU to Ed Richards, (Who completed his Cozy during the summer of 2000), for his advice, guidance, and willingness to lend me whatever he has to help me in this endeavor. His templates (no bumps, joggles, or glitches), hot wire power supply, and willingness to answer stupid questions have made my travels in this vein very enjoyable, with minimal of duplication of effort.

I practiced hot wire cutting by doing the elevator cores first... and I recommend the same to any who follow. It requires the least waste per mistake, and gives you great insight to the finer aspects of hot wire cutting. Nuff said about that. Make sure you have a power supply with ample current capability. I first bought the "Economy Kit" from ACS... not near enough stuff to do the job.

When placing the wooden dowels, take care to get the straight thru the cores from aft to forward. Mine had a bit of an up-angle. Not a big problem, but just one more thing to worry a little about.

To the left, is the aft canard cores,(after cutting the forward half off), lined up in the 12' long 2x4's,(Don't use the plans 8-10 foot long ones), ready for glassing the shear web.

Here is "Bindy the Wonder Dog" performing some Quality Control Inspection.

I bought the Lift tabs from Brock. The only problem with them was I had to drill the holes to the proper size. They also had a couple of minor scratches on them, which were easily sanded with extra fine paper. (Later note: Get’em from the Cozy Girrrrl’s now....)

Here is a shot of the bottom spar cap. It went pretty much according to plans. I had 50yds of the sparcap tape, and used every bit of it... and needed more. I'm not sure what the reason is. Whether the epoxy (MGS) wets out better, thereby taking up less space... thereby requiring more glass tape, or what. John Slade had the same problem, and he used MGS as well.

Here I am, putting the final layers of the top.

The canard came in at @23lbs. Would've liked it lighter, but I thought it better to err on the heavy side if at all, considering a canard failure could result in an unusual landing. To keep the trailing edge straight, I used a prime piece of 1"x2" wood. I just didn't feel comfortable with the "pipe" method.

I also found using the template to determine if I had enough UNI-tape in the sparcap.

First Flight!!!!!


1. Watch the angle of your dowels as they are being drilled.

2. On the forward edge for the shear-web,(nose cut off), use as minimal a radius as possible. This will necessitate minimal micro filling when you glue the front half back on.

3. Make sure you order more than plans amount of UNI-tape...especially if you're using MGS epoxy. I had 50 yards and still needed more. (Yeah, I measured it.)

4. When placing the Lift tabs, make sure you angle the tabs "mildly" toward the rear. (as shown in the drawings). I made mine a right angles, and ended-up spending much time and angst worrying about how to make the pads angled and wether the change would make the whole damn assembly weaker.

5. Hot wire your elevators first. You'll learn from the same mistakes you would have made on the canard, but it will cost you much less.

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